Baby Stepping is a feature from Marlin Firmware that allows you to move the Z-axis up or down in small increments in order to fine-tune the first layer height. My X and Y axis both work when sending commands to move in the positive and negative direction, but my Z axis only moves up. I have TH3D Marlin firmware installed. Save current position and move to filament change position. My MPCNC is almost finished. Auto-home one or more axes, moving them towards their endstops until triggered. I have full manual control of all axis... moving up/down/homing ect, all with manual control. Been using marlin 1.1 but wanted newest auto leveling and other bells and whistles. In Marlin I had to set the #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for the z axis to 1600 to get the z axis to move 10 mm when commanded to move 10 mm.. What would be the pros and cons of going to half or full steps and Specifically, the Z-axis will move down (and trigger the endstop) but it will only make a quick noise if I try to move it up. Move the nozzle down to level of the print bed; LCD navigation: “Prepare> Move axis> Move Z> Move minus 0.1mm increment” and make a note of the value or type “G1 Z-0.5, G1 Z-0.6″, so on, in to the serial monitor, until the I have been able to draw some forms to check if it’s square. I went to a parallel configuration. Navigate back to the z axis movement and increase the z axis by rotating the knob clockwise to about 2.0 representing 2mm. The Z axis should move down by the Z offset we set above. If the gauge is loose then you need to lengthen the travel on this axis- you are working on … If not, you may need to tweak the offset Tried to implement latest Marlin on my reprappro with ramps 1.4. I was having the motors lock up on moves. No problems there. Move your Z axis fairly high, and then 'Home Z' or G28 Z to test Z homing. This is a very slow process from the LCD screen. Right now I am using the LCD screen to home the machine then move to my material origin so I can set the offsets. When I try to move the Z-axis, using the hardware buttons in the LCD menu (without a computer connected), it only goes down, when I both increase, and decrease, the value of Z. I tried swapping the pins for the clip and the plate. The machine will then move a further -0.7mm in Z to Unfortunately i noticed, that during print the Z-axis wont move upwoards when a new layer begins and it should move upwoards. Problem is, the Z axis does not move up while printing! We will proceed to uncomment the USE_ZMIN_PLUG options. The patch i meant only … If combined with a Z and P field (example: G31 P312 Z0.7) this will set the Z height to 0.7mm when the Z-probe value reaches 312 when a G28 Z0 (zero Z axis) command is sent. Just to clarify I didnt add in anything extra besides changing the settings to speed that worked in my previous version. I had an idea the other day and I want share it with you guys and ask if you think it would be worth pursuing. When the z axis homes , it touches the endstop and moves up and homes again , but when moving down to home the second time , it moves extremely slowly , it takes 1 minute to hit the endstop again. Hello, I am having an issue where I click z home and it goes down a few millimeter and stops. To set the Z axis home offset on the 3d printer, you will use g-code commands including M206 for the home offset, M500 and M501 for the Marlin Firmware EEPROM feature, and G1 for controlled move to Z axis zero position. G'day, I have a new Ord Hadron and having an issue with the Z axis. Z-Axis Move Planning in Practice And that is the big limiting factor with Z-moves: the distances are very small. I just finished a scratch build printer (cartesian) and everything works fine except the x axis is crooked when the dual Z motors move the axis up and down. Everything has been running fine since updating. The BLTouch probe should deploy and the Z axis should move down. As soon Min software stops are currently disabled, as I try to set the printer up. i just have trouble make the Z axis and/or the gcode with slic3r be the correct one, x, y, and e, seems to work fine, but Z keeps struck at the Z home position, on the gcode it only move .325 on the firs Z position, i dont get to Z // Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe. I just finished assembly of Anet A8 (Prusa i3 clone). X and Y homes fine but Z all of a sudden moves upwards instead of down towards the endstop/buildplate. See if the z-axis moves. nothing I do seems to change this. I also exchanged bent Z-axis threaded M8 rods that came with the kit for new, more straight, stainless steel rods. Using I see. This tends to be from insufficient current. Touch the end of the probe with your finger to trigger the end-stop, the following On Z-stop trigger, right Z moves up, left Z continues to try to move down. I have to cancel everything. If it looks a long way above, click the Z move 1 button, then go down by 0.1 until you reach z= 0. I have just finished building a Tronxy P802M Prusa i3. This feature is usually disabled by default in Marlin but can be enabled when recompiling the firmware. Many 3D printers will use the combination of a threaded rod connected to your Z stepper motor shafts to … X-Y dual endstops: It works fine but on the Y axis when I move the head after homing 1 motor seems to start in advance. Once you have edited it, we are going to indicate to our dear Marlin that our 3D printer has a limit switch (sensor) on the Z axis. Prepare > Move axis > Move 0.1mm > Move Z Slowly move the Z axis down until you have the correct first layer gap (paper or thin card method) Note the distance on the display e.g. Write a quick script to move the head somewhere up high, then terminate without the X-homing command. x and y homing works awesome. Still goes down to the same value as M851 Copy link Contributor Blue-Marlin commented May 19, 2016 • edited by thinkyhead Hmm ja. 0.6 mm (0.6 mm is example, note your actual) X any Y work fine, both Z motors move down just fine, when homed. Using Pronterface version 2013.10.19, connects to the printer (using the IDE and command line), the X Y and Z motors G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X232 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X232 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X232 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X232 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 Hi, I am new in CNC but have few years experience in 3D printing. SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Software & Firmware → Help! … Pro-tip: You might want to keep you finger near the on/off switch on your printer. Ditto for X-home but not motor disable. M119 shows all endstops open. stays at the same level during the entire print. The Bed is a 200 by 200 job. Write any script, and while the gantry is up high, pull So is it is not the drivers. Examples: I turn on the printer, and say the extruder head is at distance x from the bed. I've finished building my first Prusa i3 from 3dprinterczar and am working on getting the motors correctly calibrated and have ran into a problem. prusa-i3 marlin electronics z-axis firmware Attached is my configuration.h all of my changes are bounded by #ifdef ChuckMod. i use Marlin (from this site) on a ramps1.4 with dual endstops X and Y. I have 2 questions regarding endstops. The left axis continued to occasionally move down when I raised z by 1 or .1mm . A move of just 0.1 or 0.2mm doesn’t give much time or space to accelerate and slow down again. Has anyone experienced this before? Each axis is backed off and re-bumped according to the [XYZ]_HOME_BUMP_MM and HOMING_BUMP_DIVISOR settings. You might only be able to move an axis using the + for that axes. I inverted the Z-axis in the firmware (by setting the value to true instead of false), and it did the same thing, but the other way around - it would only go down. The main thing here is to write down wheter an axis is moving the right direction or not. Z-endstop switch is monitored when moving Z axis down via LCD menu or G0. My machine has a zero point which is not over the build platform, so to get the nozzle over the platform I have to move the x and y axis. Check the fit of the paper - if it is good, and the nozzle seems to be at the correct height, then we are done with the calibration. I can move it up however far I want, to let's say x+15mm. 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